When in Doubt, Throw it Out -- A Small Challenge 4 U

Do you ever look at something and say to yourself, "that's enough! I don't want that anymore, and I'm tired of dealing with it/picking it up/cleaning it/(fill in the blank)!" I have.

If I look at an item and get that sense of annoyance, I chuck it (or donate it if it is useful). It often occurs when I am in my kids' bedrooms or the playroom, which involves throwing away small, annoying toys or itty, bitty pieces of stuff. I feel no guilt or regret. If anything, I feel like a tiny weight has been lifted because never again do I have to see or move or clean or organize that item!

Try this carefree approach in any one room of your house. It could be a bin of toys, a basket of items or a drawer of gadgets. Which thing are you tired of seeing? Is there an item of clothing that is a waste of laundry detergent, or an object taking up valuable space? Then why hold on to it?? Anything that gives you a negative feeling or association -- chuck it. Life's too short to deal with objects giving you guilt or annoyance. Take back your power! :)

Staying Organized with Household Scheduling

Remembering everything can be overwhelming. Using a time management tool like a planner or calendar will enable you to forget when you plan ahead. I usually recommend that you have no more than 2 calendars -- one large calendar for everyone's schedules/events, and one personal planner that you can carry around. (Otherwise you do a lot of transcribing and duplicating information).

• The large calendar provides an overview for everyone at-a-glance and incorporates each family member’s priorities. If you have kids, you can consult your school calendar and transfer all important dates onto the calendars to cover holidays, school activities, etc. You can also color-code the items you write in according to type of event or by family member.


• Your personal or work planner can be a paper planner or PDA that you can take with you. Carry your planner/calendar system at all times. By having your system on hand, you'll review before you commit and remember events when the time comes.


• Remember that you can use your calendar both for events/happenings AND tasks/to-do items. This ensures that you will do things on the day they should be done.


• The most important key to success, though, is to synchronize the 2 components, which isn’t difficult but it is something you have to remember to do. My husband and I both have electronic PDA's so we're able to 'sync' our calendars by beaming events from handheld to handheld. Then I upload the PDA's info to our computer so I can print out 8 1/2 x 11 sized calendar printouts to be viewed in the kitchen.

My rule at our house is that if it is not written down, it isn't happening. That goes for things we're doing, things my husband is doing, work schedules and even what we need to buy at the grocery store (i.e. my husband: "did we buy more ginger ale?" me: "was it on the list?" -- no, so it didn't get bought).

Designate one central spot for communications; you might have a dry erase board, a bulletin board, or something similar near the phone or in the kitchen. You want something that will communicate information (i.e. calendar and messages). Think through how your family comes in the door, where they go, what they look at, etc. to determine good placement.

The more you write down, the less you have to remember and the more that will get done!

Filing Tips

– Use hanging folders to support manila folders, which will store your documents. Broad categories are for hanging files; specific ones are for the folders. Broad categories would include household, auto, real estate, employment, banking, credit cards, and family members’ names (for personal paperwork).

– Pick the name you would think of first if you had to find the file. But try to use generic folder names whenever possible -- without confusing two files. For example, name the file “Telephone” rather than “Verizon”. That way, you don’t have to start a new file if you change phone companies.

– Group similar documents together, whenever possible. For example, if you have more than one business credit card, begin each file name with “Credit Card”, then the name of the credit card.

– You don’t need to keep the utility bills from 8 months ago – generally having the last few stubs in case you have a question is plenty. Many things you pay bills for are set-up where the current statement makes the prior one obsolete.

– Keep in mind that tax related documents must be kept for seven years, insurance policies can be tossed once they expire, and home and auto records should be kept for as long as you own the property.

– Always add new items to the front of the file so that your most recent documents are in the front. Recent documents are referred to more often than older ones.

– When you sort through your incoming mail, immediately pull out the bills and put them in a designated area. Whatever container you use, make sure it is in a convenient spot near where you drop your keys and the rest of the mail or the desk that you pay bills. Also, try to spend a few extra minutes opening the bills and discarding the outer envelope as well as the envelope stuffers. Get it down to just the bill and its return envelope, or just the statement if you do online banking.

Wait, There's More!

I came across this information from the Container Store website -- one of my faves -- and thought it was well-written. In fact, as I was reading the list, I was saying to myself, "Hey I say that!" To save you from clicking to link, I've posted it below, but edited out their product endorsements. Hope you find it helpful!

Top 12 Tips for Getting Organized

1. If You've Got Several Areas to be Organized, Start with One -- You decide which one to start with – is it the area that gives you the biggest headache, or the area that guests to your home most easily see? Whatever your priorities, select one area and stick to it. Many attempts at organization fail when the task of cleaning up the entire house seems daunting and folks give up. When you complete one area, celebrate and then move on to the next.
2. Allow Plenty of Time -- Don't expect organization to happen overnight. Depending on the area to be organized, schedule a couple of hours each day to work on getting the area organized. Getting a garage whipped into shape will take more time than it takes to organize a linen closet.
3. Clean House -- Once you've selected an area, go through the contents. Donate or hold a garage sale for anything you don't or can't wear or use any more. Use the two year rule of thumb – if you haven't worn it in two years, it's time to say goodbye to it. These items take up valuable space and probably won't be missed.
4. Take Inventory -- After you've removed extraneous items, take a look at what remains. Does it belong here? Does it make sense to keep it here? Is there another place where you've got more room to keep it, or another area where it would be more easily accessible for it's purpose? For example, take that professional-grade mixer that you've been keeping in the back of your closet and move it to the kitchen. When it's time to tackle that area of the home, you can incorporate the mixer into the new storage plan for the kitchen.
5. Look for Wasted Space -- If you're in need of more storage space, think creatively about additional areas that you can put to work. Prime examples include over doors and underneath beds. These areas are valuable real estate in your home and are often overlooked.
6. Maximize Vertical Space -- If you don't have a lot of room to work with, a surefire way to instantly create more space is to go "up". Instead of only having a couple of shelves to house your kitchen items, take them up to the ceiling to really maximize the vertical space – you'll store the things you need less frequently on the higher shelves.
7. Divide the Space -- By adding additional shelves to a single shelf, or by using containers that stack atop one another, you can divide the vertical space and make efficient use of the area you have to work with. By dividing the space, you eliminate the possibility of stacking tall piles of clothing, papers or other items that are destined to topple over.
8. Keep it Moving -- Consider storage options on wheels to allow for greater flexibility and to help keep the clutter under control. Carts can hold an assortment of accessories in a small amount of space, and can be wheeled back into a closet or storage area when not in use.
9. Organize with Color -- Whether you're working to organize the family room or striving to get your home office under control, use color to enhance your efforts. Assign each child a different colored container to keep his or her belongings in and keep them responsible for cleaning up after themselves. Organize projects, bills and other important papers by function and color in your home office.
10. Visibility - The three rules to organization are visibility, accessibility and flexibility. Choose containers that are either transparent or that you can easily label to help immediately identify the contents and will help save valuable time.
11. Accessibility -- Make sure that the items you need most often are the easiest to access. Likewise, place the items you don't need to get to as often on a higher shelf or in another area.
12. Flexibility -- Select a storage system that can adapt to your changing needs. That way, you can reconfigure and reuse solutions to solve a variety or storage and organization problems.

6 Random Organizing Tips 4 U

1. Linen and clothes closet tip: when items are in vertical piles on shelves or in drawers, you can ensure an even rotation of usage by putting newly cleaned items on the bottom of the pile. That way, the items recently worn or used are not always being grabbed for.


2. Use clear-vinyl hanging shoe organizers on the back of doors for small items. They’re great for dolls and doll accessories, toy cars, kids’ clothing, crafts and office supplies. These organizers are best put behind a door so that you can close the door and hide the visual “colorfulness”.


3. Hang a magnetic pad on the side of the refrigerator so that when you or family members are about to use the last item or eat the last of the food, it can easily be written down nearby. In our house, if it doesn’t get written down, it doesn’t exist or need to be bought yet!


4. Keep gift cards and store/retail coupons (i.e. a gift certificate to a restaurant or a Starbucks gift card) in your primary car. If you don’t want to lug them in your wallet or purse, put them in a bag and in a memorable spot in the car – chances are, anytime you’d use them, you’d be driving there. Every so often go through the cards and coupons to toss out of date ones and remind yourself what you have.


5. If you haven’t converted to online bill paying, try it! Try one payee to start if you have to. It is SO easy and you save tons on stamps. When the mail comes, you can toss everything but the statement since you don’t need the envelope, too. Use the statement to record the online bill pay transaction and file it.


6. Hang an attractive open basket or decorative wall container near the door where you’d leave with outgoing mail. Ours has a little tag attached that reads “Outgoing Mail”. Whenever you have something to be mailed, stick it in the basket. A quick look at the basket or simply walking near the door will remind you that things need to be put into the mailbox.

Gift-Wrapping 101

Here are some suggestions for being organized in the gift-giving department. It is helpful to have a ready supply of both cards and wrapping paper/gift bags.

Cards: I use a card organizer box, that has tabbed dividers by category (Thanks, Birthday, etc.). I generally stock up on greeting cards at Current or if I see ones I like at the store. If you have them at home, you're less likely to have to make a special trip to Hallmark to get a card and will have one if you need one last-minute (such as a thank-you card that Hubby needs ASAP but didn't mention until now!).

Wrapping: I like gift bags because they are easy -- plus I save the ones given to us if they have wear left. If you get a bunch of different sized bags without a specific theme and have lots of white tissue paper on hand, you're all set. I also take the solid colored ones and use marker or paint pens to embellish the bags for an occasion. Curling ribbon works well because it can go on wrapped boxes or to tie the handles of a gift bag together (plus I think it is fun to curl with one edge of scissors!). Gift bags are good for awkwardly-shaped items, too.

If you do like gift wrap better, go with flat wrap that can be piled efficiently into a Rubbermaid tub or plastic lidded bin. You can flip through flats of paper easily; rolled tubes of paper seem to be space-wasters, and I don't like how they are 'curled'. I label my plastic bins of wrapping to show "All Occasion" or "Birthday/Holiday". Generally I use wrapping paper if I have a box or the item is in a container.

Happy Gift-Giving!

Are You a Happy Camper?

Camping out in the wilderness, roughing it, enjoying nature. Sounds nice, huh? Well that is NOT what my family will be doing next week but sort of.

We're going camping per se but within a KOA campground so it's not quite under the stars with only the stuff on our backs. But that's okay -- we just happen to like having running (hot) water and amenities nearby when we commune with nature.

Organizing camping gear is somewhere between spending a few nights at a hotel and moving into a college dorm. You seem to bring a lot of stuff. You feel the need to bring just-in-case items and stuff from each of the rooms in your house. Dining, kitchen, bathroom supplies, clothes, personal hygiene, first aid, shelter, bedding ... and the list goes on. If you do like to camp, I thought some tips might be in order. Not everyone does the same level of 'roughing it' so obviously some of the items will be considered luxury.

• use a checklist to help you pack (try http://www.butlerwebs.com/camping/checklist.htm)
• pack items by function/how you'll use them, such as kitchen/dining together in one bin or first aid and health/beauty products in another
• keep in mind if you're going with children that they do not always 'get' the idea of camping or living simply, and may want some familiar toys or items from the modern world
• plastic tubs can hold gear while protecting contents from the elements; just don't go too small (adds to clutter) or too large (unmanageable; hard to carry)
• use the nylon bags with handles that tent and shelter come in since they are easy to carry and identify
• bring plenty of trash bags, towels, ziploc bags and wipes
• think about your daily routine for personal items to bring -- what you do in the morning to get ready, what you do at bedtime, etc. -- and then try for travel size versions
• make meal preparation simple -- you could eat cold/dry items that don't require cooking for breakfast, sandwiches/picnic fare for lunch, and eat out at night
• get tips and ideas from experts (see http://www.llbean.com/outdoorsOnline/outdoorSports/camping/tips/familytips.html or http://camping.about.com/od/familycampingadvice/Camping_Advice_Family_Camping_Tips.htm)

Menu Planning vs. Eating Pasta 5 out of 7 Nights

I thought I would take a month off of menu planning for a change of pace and because July was filled with holidays such as the 4th, my anniversary and my birthday. Unfortunately, as a result, the food offerings have been slim pickings at times, we've been eating out a lot, and our home-cooked meals lacked real excitement.

I am returning to planning out our dinners; if anything, this 1 month without it reminded me of the benefits to planning ahead. With one month at a glance, I can see what we're eating for dinner each day plus can use it as a guide for what to buy. Generally I only have to plot out about 23-25 dinners.

Here are some tips and ideas for menu planning and food preparation. Set aside time to plan out what dish you'll serve for each day. Write down on a calendar what you are going to have, even if you plan to eat out. You can plan for a week, 2 weeks or a month -- whatever you choose. I use a monthly blank calendar that I print off a website. (try: http://www.printfree.com/Calendars.htm)

To pick the dinners, there are a couple of methods. You want to aim for dishes that the whole family loves, are easy to make, take very little time, and use ingredients that you are familiar with and have on hand most of the time. You can have a rotating menu where x number of meals repeat over and over. For example, Monday can always be pasta night, Tuesday is a casserole, Wednesday is grilling out, etc. It could be the same 30 days of meals cycling over and over each month. Plug in a few days that someone else has to make dinner (i.e. husband's or kids' choice). Or, if you're ambitious, you can plan according to the grocery store specials and then figure out how many days/dinners are left to plan after that. Be sure to note days that you already have plans (a party, eating out with family, etc.) and include a few days for "leftovers" and "order out" or whatever suits you.

Then, only buy what you need to make that calendar possible; make the grocery list from the completed calendar. If it is available, order groceries by phone or online (delivery in my area: http://www.peapod.com/). Use bulk warehouse stores to stock up on a reasonable amount of basic, non-perishable staples, and establish a pantry area for storing backup items. Obviously you will still have to pick up the occasional bread, milk or juice along the way, but the majority of food items needed to prepare the dinners will already be in your house.

Bon appetit!

Hmm, Interesting Factoids

From NAPO, 2006

A 2003 study claimed getting rid of clutter eliminates 40 percent of housework in an average home. Eighty percent of the clutter in most homes is a result of disorganization, not lack of space.

In 2001, U.S. employees wasted more than 2 hours a week finding, sharing and storing documents.

According to a study conducted by a Boston marketing firm in 2004, the average American burns 55 minutes a day -- roughly 12 weeks a year -- looking for things they know they own but can't find.

IKEA did a 2001 survey of customers in which 31% reported they were more satisfied after clearing out their closets than they were after sex.

Stainless Steel Cleaning Tip

No, I am not Heloise offering Hints, but I did try a technique yesterday I wanted to share. We have a bunch of stainless steel knives (some expensive, some not) that were...get ready for the irony...stained. They became "stain-full" of rust circles and appeared dull. All of our knives go into the dishwasher and are not treated with kid gloves. They hang on a magnetic rack (see pic) which is one of my favorite organizers (but that's a whole 'nother post!).

I looked online for a tip for cleaning stainless steel, and was happy to realize I had the 2 ingredients -- vinegar and baking soda. I mixed a large measuring cup with 1 cup vinegar and 3 cups hot water. Using a sponge, I wiped and rubbed the liquid on each knife first. Then I poured out chunks of baking soda directly onto the blades and rubbed some more. Last I rinsed the blades in hot water, and dried the knife with a cloth towel.

Presto! It worked. Hope it can help you too!

Laundry Tips

I get asked a lot about doing laundry -- one chore that is oh, so fun to do! (NOT) Actually some people don't mind doing the laundry as much as others. I recently read about maintenance tasks such as laundry, cleaning, and cooking referred to as "circular" chores, meaning they never end. How true! Well here are some things you can try, simple routines and suggestions that may help lighten your load (no pun intended).

Supplies: Keep everything you use close to the washer and dryer. Stock up on laundry detergent and dryer sheets when on sale so you won’t have times you cannot do laundry because you are out. I think liquid detergent is easier and faster. You really only need general detergent; bleach; pretreat spray (i.e. Shout); and dryer sheets.

Sorting: Try having 2 baskets in the closet or wherever you keep dirty clothes --one for whites and one for colored. As you undress, place the dirty clothes in the proper basket. Hang a cloth laundry bag for items to be dry-cleaned near where those types of clothes hang and/or where you take them off so they can go right in. If possible, have separate baskets by room so that, for ex., all of your kids' stuff goes in and comes out as a load together without being mixed into your clothes. I fully comply with the author Susan Pinsky who says: "Use tall, portable laundry baskets with no lids so family members can simply 'wing' their dirty clothes inside with minimal hassle".

Washing: When you put items like socks in, make sure they are right side out. If you cannot move the wet finished clothes into the dryer the same day, don’t start the load – a wet load sitting forgotten in the washer can get gross (I've learned about mildewy, smelly wet laundry in the basement, personally). Hot water for whites; cold for colors.

Drying: Save money by putting the dryer on the heat setting that is one level lower than hottest. Avoid having to iron by sending any clothes that would require ironing (i.e. men's shirts, linen items, etc.) to the dry cleaner's. Only foldable or comes-out-as-is stuff goes into my washing machine and dryer.

Putting Away: Try bringing clean laundry up to the room where it needs to be put away. If you did the sorting technique mentioned above, clothes for one room will all be together. You don't need to fold everything and keep it in a basket, wondering when it will go up to the bedroom. I open up my underwear drawers and, with the basket's contents upturned on my bed, fling bras and underwear into their drawers basketball-style! Socks get paired at the end when there are no more foldables. Folding clothes in the bedroom (where they will ultimately go) also forces you to finish the job as you'll need the bed at night!

Keep Up: It is a lot easier to do one part of the laundry cycle for one basket each day then a giant pile of clothes that have sat there for 2 weeks, either dirty ones in the laundry area or clean ones sitting in a basket. It is a much more daunting task to try to deal with. I suggest doing one load in or one load put away (at least one laundry-related task) DAILY if your family/household size is appropriate.

Happy Laundry Days!

Organizing Challenge...

I did this quiz at one of the organizing classes I taught. It was thought-provoking and also helped to underscore the importance of knowing where things are. Try it!

Could you realistically find the following items at your house in a minute or less? If not, you need to get more organized!
 a tape measure
 your child(ren)’s birth certificate(s)
 needle and thread
 the username/password for websites you’ve used
 business-sized envelope
 corkscrew
 deck of cards
 what you’re doing/events planned on Aug. 22 or Sept. 4
 super glue
 gravy boat
 car insurance policy
 nail file
 warranty/user guide for washer or dryer
 a dictionary
 your library card
 your dentist’s address

Just Leave It Empty!

Sometimes just because it is there, doesn't mean you have to use it.

I'm talking about shelving in particular but this also applies to closets and drawers that may be inaccessible, difficult to reach, or unneeded as storage space.

I know it is hard to imagine, but, yes, you can leave things empty or unused. Whenever I mention this to clients, they get a very scared look on their faces. Their eyes get all big and they look at me like I'm a 3-headed alien. Don't feel like you have to use space that you have UNLESS you need it and the space works for you.

Case in point: a top-floor rectangular bedroom closet built into a slanted roof. There is one closet rod for hanging clothes with a top shelf. Built around the perimeter of this closet are two levels of 10" deep wood shelving that go around 3 sides (the accordion doors of the closet make up the 4th side -- hope you're able to imagine this by my description!). Anyway, when a normal amount of clothing is hanging from the rod, the clothing hides the long back shelving as well as obscuring some of the side shelving. You literally have to push the clothes aside, scrunch down, and lean back into the back of the closet to reach anything. The shelves were populated with random items, mostly non-wearable things not really meant for a clothes closet. Was the space accessible? No. A pain to get things? Yes.

I told the client who owns the above scenario that we were no longer going to use the shelving -- just the rod and the top shelf above the rod that runs the width of the closet. Now the closet holds only clothes and shoes, with a few handbags on only the left sides' shelves -- all the rest of the shelving is empty and hopefully will stay that way.

Another case in point: a huge 4-story house with a gazillion closets. The client used all of them, even if it meant like items were spread out throughout and among various floors of the house. If you were looking for clothes, for example, they could be in any of 13 places. This was a case of too much storage; the client felt that because a closet existed, she needed to use it. Like a gas that spreads out to fill its container, the clutter spread out and took over every nook and cranny.

For that client, we first had to do sorting/purging, then establish where we'd keep what and have only 1 place for a category. She had to learn to keep some storage places closed/unused lest she fill them. We kept it simpler and thus more organized.

My Thoughts on Closet Organizer Systems

I recently purchased a ClosetMaid closet system kit (a basic one) for a bedroom closet. Not being the biggest fan of self-installed systems, I thought I would try yet another brand, another type, and see if my opinion would improve.

There are definitely a lot of options out there -- the white covered-wire types, laminate, shelves, hanging rods, custom installation by closet companies, etc. -- and I certainly like to be aware of all of them. But there is nothing like experiencing first-hand the joy (and frustration) of taking time to assemble something yourself.

The one I got (see picture) is of the laminate shelf variety, and I purchased 2 drawers to assemble and then install into the open spaces. Total cost, around $120. The closet space is long with the width only 3 feet so we actually only used 2 of the 3 rods (only on one side of the tower). Yes it is all done. Yes it looks nice with all of my husband's things beautifully stored inside and on the rods. But...

...it took over 2 days' time! When you take the time and energy to:

• remove all items from the closet
• take down existing closet/shelving structures and remove nails
• spackle and sand holes (plus, in our case, some larger patches where glued wood strips were removed)
• vacuum the floor
• paint the walls and ceiling
• clean light fixture
• assemble all the closet system pieces
• install all the closet system pieces
• put all the clothes inside

Keep in mind that this was done by a Professional Organizer and her husband. We told the kids to ignore the hammering and take their naps (twice) just so we could finish the project ASAP. (I can only take piles of clothes on my bed and on the floor for so long.)

So, yet again, I am further in my resolve that installed closet systems may be a costly, time-consuming investment for something you most likely won't take with you to another house. With so many portable/movable products on the market for closets, it is easy to be creative and meet your needs without 'em. Just my opinion...

No Junk Drawers Allowed

A word on junk drawers...NO. None. Zip. Don't.

And now I'll tell you why. When you have spaces that hold no specific function, the items contained within have no specific identity. There are no parameters or rules for what goes in or what doesn't. Not only do you not know what is contained there, but, because there is the possibility that anything could be in there, you have to check that spot if you're looking for something and cannot find it. Junk drawers then become the random mixture of unrelated objects.

"No", you say, "their common element is that they're junk!" Sorry, I reject that. Just like I advise clients not to label things 'miscellaneous' -- it is just another way not to organize something. You are not allowed to organize items by their disorganization!

But seriously, what do you do with that drawer in your kitchen or bin in your basement that is full of odds and ends?

1. Dump it out. Take everything out so it is all visible and the drawer is empty.


2. Take a look at the clean, empty drawer/bin. Nice, huh? Can you imagine something else that could go in there that you have always wanted storage for?


3. Ok, back to the stuff. First, throw away anything you want/need to toss.


4. Look at what's left. Any duplicates that you can get rid of?


5. Look at what's left. Group like items together -- i.e. tools together, office supplies together, etc.


6. Look at the groups. How many need to stay in that room or accessible on that floor of your house? Is there a similar group somewhere else that they can join?


7. If you have decided that the remaining items must return to the original drawer/bin (review #2 again), think about getting a drawer divider or organizer that corrals the items.


8. Change the name of the 'junk' drawer to one that better suits the now-organized drawer, such as 'utility' drawer or 'office supplies'.

Great Organizing Book

I recently finished reading a book that gave tips and strategies for people with ADD -- it was great and very helpful. If this applies to you, or you want some no-nonsense organizing suggestions, check out Organizing Solutions for People with Attention Deficit Disorder. The best part of the book was that the ideas can be applied to anyone and make good organizing sense.

I especially loved the logical approach of the author's ideas. She suggests that the best systems are the ones that are most efficient, the simplest and easiest to maintain. The goal cannot always be beauty, it must be practicality. She also points out that while good storage is important, cutting back on your stuff is more effective and efficient because you don't have to manage so much. Bottomline -- reduce the number of items you have, whether it be pots, spoons or towels.

Another suggestion the book makes (which I utilize and advise with clients often) is to make things accessible: use open shelving, use clear tubs with no lids, avoid stacking and remove packaging. The author talks about the "one in/one out" rule you can use with magazines, and how you should only keep 5 pieces of Tupperware in your inventory. While she's hardcore about minimalism, I agreed with the down-to-earth, no sugar-coating approach!

No Time for Time Management

I have a quote that I LOVE about time management: "Those who make the worse use of their time are the first to complainof its shortness." -- Jean De La Bruyere. The essence of the quotation is that we complain a lot about not having time to do this or that, and I think that is an overused excuse. Yes, I said it. I know I won't be popular for having done so, but I think it is true.

When friends or clients tell me that they don't have time for a specific activity, I suggest it is that might be because what they want or need to do is a priority, and other things go on the back burner. Yes, there are some things we cannot avoid, but maybe there are alternatives -- think grocery delivery instead of going yourself; saying no to invitations or long-term commitments; scheduling 'family time' with strict no-planning-other-activities adherence.

I bet you, that if we analyzed our day, I could find 1/2 hour for you to read a magazine, make a phone call, or listen to your iPod. Sometimes it takes creativity or changing the way you normally do something.

If your weekend seems to be the only time for leisure activities, here are some time management suggestions:

• Attend only one big event per weekend day
• Honor naptime/rest time
• Build more chores into the week
• Outsource whenever possible
• Set aside unscheduled family time
• Be more selective about social obligations
• Cut down your kids’ weekend activities or commitments (i.e. sports)
• Avoid daylong projects
• Leave work at work

Avoid these time-wasters:

· Attempting to do more than you can handle
· Trying to do everything yourself
· Scheduling activities so that you have too little time to do it all, or too much time on your hands · Jumping from one thing to the next without getting one thing done fully
· Not using commuting or traveling time wisely
· Trying to be perfect – no one is

Ultimately, you DO have control over what you choose to do!

A Tip on Computer File Organization

I learned this tip the hard way. The other day I was on the computer looking at a folder of 22 files (handouts I use for clients and classes). While I have a printed-out version of each handout, I thought it would be helpful to have a print-out of just the list of the files; in other words, I wanted a list of the contents of the folder. That way, at a glance, I could look at all the handout topics on one piece of paper without looking at the computer.

I tried to highlight, copy and paste the list to no avail, then searched online for some help. Apparently many PC users had the same question, and all I got was some "command>"/DOS gobbledy-gook that I didn't understand (plus my husband told me in no uncertain terms that I was not to mess with the inner workings of the computer).

After about a half an hour, when I was determined that this should be able to be done, I adapted a trick I read about online. Go to your folder and have the items viewed in details or list format. Hit "Alt" and "Print Screen/SysRq" at the same time. Open up a blank Word document and hit Paste. You'll get a snapshot of the window (what you actually see on the screen), and print it out. I did this for a few folders where I had a lot of items, and wrote in caps at the top what the category was. Just thought I'd share!